Just south of Hood River, Oregon lies a vast and fertile valley, dotted with fruit orchards, farms and wineries. Here, you will find the Columbia Mushroom Company, a low-key and unassuming farm and home to the equally laidback owner and proprietor, Neil Brent.
I had the opportunity to visit the farm a few weeks ago on a sunny and unseasonably warm early spring day. Upon arrival, I was greeted by a menagerie of happy animals including pigs, goats, ducks, chickens and the ever so friendly farm dog, Brio, and owner, Neil. The farm was teeming with activity that day and everyone was in a good mood thanks to the good weather. Even the bees seemed happy, busily enjoying their first taste of spring flowers after a long winter’s rest.
Neil started the Columbia Mushroom Company in 2016. He hired his first employee in 2019 and now has a crew of four full-time employees (plus Neil who accounts for at least three additional employees alone). Neil and his staff are a tight knit community. They tease each other like brothers and all seem to thoroughly enjoy working together. And it’s not hard to understand why everyone is having so much fun. The Columbia Mushroom Company is doing some really cool things these days!
On the farm, mushrooms abound. Varieties include Chestnut, Shiitake, Blue Oyster, Black Oyster, Lions Mane, King Trumpet, and the coveted Maitake. The mushrooms are grown in tidy little modular compartments made from metal shipping containers that are climate controlled and outfitted with racks and racks of sprouting mushrooms. These buildings allow for small-batch growing and each container can be shut down and deep-cleaned as necessary while production in other containers continues. This ingenuity and organization left its impression on me and it may explain Neil’s most recent success…growing the ever-so-fickle, Maitake mushroom. Neil says it’s dumb luck. I think it has to do more with perseverance, wit and creativity.
Looking around, just about every piece of equipment on the farm has been designed and engineered by Neil. Apparently, there isn’t a lot of “off the shelf” equipment designed and dedicated to mushroom growing (it’s not like the wine industry), so Neil has had to build or retrofit much of the farm equipment used in the mushroom growing process. This streamlined operation is what he refers to as “failing forward”. I think it’s awesome.
The Columbia Mushroom Company grows some of the most beautiful mushrooms that I have ever laid eyes on. They are delicious and their flavors are something that you can’t find in a container of button mushrooms at your local grocery store. Neil’s mushrooms are fresh with a firm texture, bright color and earthy aroma. The quality really makes a difference and their flavors will elevate any dish with their unique umami notes.
If you live in the Columbia Gorge, you can find fresh Columbia Mushroom Company mushrooms at The Farm Stand, Treebird Market, the Gorge Farmer Collective and the Hood River Saturday Market, or at many restaurants found throughout the region. For those outside of the Gorge, you can purchase fresh mushrooms or grow-your-own starter kits on the Columbia Mushroom Company website here! Your purchase will not only include high-quality mushrooms, but will contribute to this ever-growing operation and lend support to small-batch local farming and fair and equitable wages for Neil and his crew. Support small business. Buy local.
